Saddle Fit Demystified

Recently, I was fortunate enough to be accepted into and attended this years Master Saddlers Association Certified Saddle Fitters Program.

The MSA is an organization that was formed in the effort to create a standard for employing 10 steps of scientifically proven saddle fitting techniques.

One of the most common misconceptions of saddle fit is that if a rider goes out and purchases a beautiful, comfortable new saddle that they tried on a dummy horse at the shop, that it will fit. They did their homework and brought tracings of the horse. The saddle is the most comfortable for them that they ever sat in but guess what, they get the saddle home, ride the horse for a week or so and the horse's back becomes sore. Reason? That saddle was not made to fit that horse. You've not done a bad thing because the saddle doesn't fit exactly right. It really shouldn't unless you have had a saddle custom made to fit your horse specifically. This includes fitting it to your horse's "live" back not a dummy horse in a shop.

The other option is to purchase the saddle that is closest to your horse's specifications and then have a professional saddle fitter come to your barn and adjust the panel's flocking to insure a proper fit.

The young horse will go through many muscular and structural changes in their early stages. It is important to have a proper and comfortable saddle fit so they may develop to their potential in the discipline in which they are being trained. Seasonal changes may affect fit as well. In the off season, the horse may gain some weight and lose a little muscle. In the competition season, they will be more muscular and the fit will differ.

Ideally, the saddle should be looked at and adjusted (if necessary) twice per year. This is debatable with some but, preventative measures will save you money in the long run.

Horses that stay fit throughout the year and train at the same level will often need their saddles adjusted less frequently than for example, a dressage horse that is moving up the levels rapidly and changing its body. Especially as it uses its hind end more and lifts in front. As the horse's topline and hind end increase muscularly, it tends to fill the saddle up more. Also, as it gets stronger behind, the psoas (loins), gluteals (butt) and longissimus dorsi (back) develop, the saddle will sit differently at the cantle. These are areas that can in many cases be easily adjusted to accommodate the horse's changing musculature, as well as complimenting the rider's correct seat. If the pommel (front) or the cantle (rear) of the saddle changes the way it sits on the horse due to an increase or decrease in muscle mass and this is left unattended, the rider's position will change dramatically, possibly resulting in a drop in performance. A few things that may be recognized are that the horse develops a sore back, goes inverted, grinds his teeth, or the rider might start giving the illusion that he is water skiing with his legs out in front of him or he may find himself pitching forward.

In the older horse, usually 16 years or above, the musculature can start to change or deteriorate rapidly. Of course this is not true in all cases. There are many horses that, when kept in consistent work, have good dietary habits and stay sound, go on competing to a ripe old age.

The first notice of loss of muscle due to a pinching or ill fitting saddle might be in the trapezius, latissimus dorsi or spinalis dorsi (wither area). You may start to notice a hollow or flatness that previously wasn't noted. You may also notice an asymmetry as opposed to the rounded symmetrical appearance that was once exhibited. This hollow or asymmetry may allow the saddle to ride forward or allow the pommel to come very close to resting on the wither. The first thing a rider will want to do is pad the area in question. This may not be a bad decision but the saddle should fit properly before pads are added. Otherwise, we are trying to solve the problem by putting a Band-Aid on it instead of addressing the cause. Also, if the saddle is adjusted properly, the expense of a new pad might not be warranted. The front section of the panels and flaps can easily be reflocked and adjusted so that a proper fit is insured.

Another thing to look for when you are evaluating your fit are the spinous processes. These are the bony prominences you will see along the top of the horse's spine. If the horse ages or is out of work for an amount of time, it will lose its topline. The tips of the spinous processes will give the illusion of a hunter's bump, scoliosis or a kyphosis (rise in spine). If the horse appears to have a sore back to go along with these symptoms, the first thing to rule out is ill-fitting tack. After that, if necessary, you might want to check on and rule out shoeing problems, hock problems or even more serious conditions such as EPM. If there is a loss of muscle in this area, we will see the cantle low and the rider will have his feet too far out in front of him. There will also be two very specific sore spots caused by pressure points under the saddle. In any case that appears to be serious or causing continual problems — CONTACT YOUR VET!

If your saddle just needs reflocking, the beauty is that it can be performed right at your stable. The downtime is nil. When the flocking is compressed or the saddle you are using is foam filled, you might want to consider a complete reflock in which the seat and panels are separated and the panels are filled with new wool. This is generally completed back at the shop and followed up with a fitting.

If the signs and symptoms are ignored or band-aided, they will result in severe problems that will equate to a loss of riding time. As stated earlier, padding may not be a bad choice, but keep in mind that, in many cases, it is a consumer choice and what looks like it might feel good to us, might not be the answer for your horse. More than once, the consumer has been reeled in by miraculous claims!

Quick Check — 10 proven steps
Have your horse stand as square as you can.

1. Position of the saddle: Put the saddle upon the horses wither and give it a slide back to where it sits "at home". This is the correct position of the saddle.

2. Check the tree points: The tree points should be at approximately a 10 degree angle along the resting surface of the horse. The saddle should be approx. 2 fingers (2") from the scapula. The scapula can retract 4-6 inches depending on the horse. Do keep in mind that usually the flap has plenty of give and that the point position is of most importance.

3. Levelness of seat: When the saddle is sitting flat on the horse's back, the deepest part of the seat should appear to be parallel to the ground. If you were to take a pencil or chapstick, place it on the seat of the saddle, it should come to rest in the exact area that your seat bones would be located if you were in the saddle.

4. Adequate pommel clearance: In the past, we have always heard that the clearance needs to be 3 fingers between the pommel and wither. While that is not wrong, it is not always "the word". In some instances, the clearance may be lower and still be adequate or appropriate. If it were higher, it would more that likely indicate too narrow a tree.

5. Panel pressure: Run your hand under the flap (knuckles toward the horse), back towards the stirrup bars (where your leathers attach to the saddle). Is there room to slide your hand in? Or is it too tight, therefore creating pressure? Run your flat hand under the panels (palm toward the horse). In the middle of the panels, is there enough room to put your whole hand in? If so, your saddle is 'bridging.' Is it very tight and allowing your saddle to 'rock' when you put alternating pressure at the pommel and the cantle? This would mean that your saddle is overstuffed. Does your saddle look like it's going uphill? Or, does it appear to be falling onto the wither?

6. Pommel to cantle relationship: As you are standing to the side of the horse, with the saddle in the correct position, the cantle should be significantly higher than the pommel. Even on an all purpose this should be the case.
Pressure test: If you are on the left side of the horse, place your left hand flat on the pommel and your right on the cantle. Gently, but deliberately, alternate your pressure from hand to hand and see if the saddle rocks. It shouldn't.

7. Check seat length: With the saddle in the correct position, check where the panels end. They should not extend past the last (18th) rib. In the loin area, there is no solid skeletal structure to properly support the saddle.

8. Lateral stability: It is necessary to check if the saddle slides side to side. This can be checked with same hand placement as #7 above and the right hand rocking the cantle side to side. The importance of dynamic fitting applies here.

9. Checking the gullet (Channel): As you stand behind the horse, look to see that there is adequate clearance around the horse spine. The saddle should not sit so low as to hit the horses spinous process’ nor should the channel be so narrow that when the horse bends, a pressure occurs on the spine. When through with this observation, take 3 of you fingers and see if they fit comfortably between the rear of the saddle between the 2 panels. When you take the saddle off the horse, take the same 3 fingers, lie them on your horses spine and check where your saddles panels rest.

10. Horses response: This step applies constantly throughout the application of all the above steps. If the horse is chomping his teeth, pinning his ears, trying to kick etc, he is trying to tell us that he’s uncomfortable. Keep this in mind if your horse tries to get away from you as you approach with your saddle.

In checking saddle fit correctly, the saddle fitter should take wither and back tracings for later comparison. They should check the saddle in a static state following all the steps above. Most importantly, to insure a correct fit, the fitter should encourage the rider to be on and make a dynamic assessment.

When the horse is at rest, the back is in a totally different state than during work. What can be observed while the horse is in motion can be invaluable.

This article was written by Mike Scott, long time human and equine massage therapist. Mike is originally from Massachusetts but relocated to SC in 2000. Mike still travels frequently to MA. and FL for clinics, fittings and massage.

About Mike :

Mike Scott became certified in human massage therapy in 1986. For the next several years he enjoyed a very successful practice that brought him around the world working with USAT&F events, Boston Marathons, Olympic trials and his steady clientele at home. He worked very closely with referrals from MD’s, PT’s, Chiropractors and other MT’s.

Shortly after his completion of studies at Bancroft School of Massage Therapy in Worcester MA in human massage he started to pursue his love and interest in therapy for the horse. After establishing a clientele and gaining much experience, he started teaching the Equine Massage/Muscle Therapy training courses. He also authored The Basic Principles of Equine Massage/Muscle Therapy (book and video) and The Equine Training Log and Health Care Diary.

In working with the horse on a daily basis, he noticed the recurring back problems in horses due to improper saddle fit. After going around with a number of saddle fitters, Mike wanted a more formal and structured class type setting to understand the basics and then build on experience. In 2001 he obtained certification form the Cumbria School of Saddlery in Penrith UK in bridlemaking and intermediate repairs. Complete saddle flocking was also addressed during this schooling. In 2002, he applied to, attended and completed the Master Saddlers Association Saddle Fitters Certification Program here in the US.

He continues to apprentice with as many saddlers as time allows and to take courses in advanced repairs.
Mike’s knowledge in the horses body, movement and how to treat problems assures you the very best in saddle fitting and massage possible.

To contact Mike, his email is:mscott@saddleguy.com or call 803-424-1887. For more information on the MSA saddle fitting program, visit Mastersaddlers.com.

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